I have finished painting the inside of the canoe I have been working on for some time. I find canoes challenge my artistic interests in wood boat building. I much more prefer to design a pattern of strips along the deck of a kayak that works well as a pallet.
I do love the sweeping curves of a canoe however and I enjoy the building process that allows me to slowly create these gentle curves. In this case I have been struggling with my artistic drive that insists I build a classy and beautiful boat. I decided to paint the interior with a marine quality paint using a pneumatic sprayer. I chose a cream color that will compliment the unstained ash gunnels, seats and yoke. The outside of the boat is smooth as glass and will finish bright with several layers of varnish allowing the curly maple and mahogany accents shine through.
The hull of the Tuxedo is complete, at least the outside of it. The herringbone design along the keel looks as good as I had hoped. The symmetry along the length of the boat compliments the great design of this boat.
I have completed stripping the hull. The build has gone very well, I completed the hull in about 10 hours. I went staple less, using a hot glue gun to hold the strips while the glue dried while also hand beveling the strips to assure a tight fit without the surprises that I always get when using bead and cove. Gaps always seem to appear due to a poor fit that cannot be seen inside the bead and cove. The stripping required extra care and dedication to excellence to make sure that the fit of each piece was as tight as possible but due to the care and precision of each fitting, the build went faster than my others.
The herringbone pattern along the Keel is absolutely amazing and finishes out the bottom of the boat with a quality look.
I am ready to begin the herringbone pattern along the keel of the Tuxedo sea kayak. If this particular design works out I feel I will be producing some of the finest boats available today. My intentions have been to build the finest watercraft anyone can expect to own. I have read just about everything I can find, books, manuals, blogs, forums and websites. I have purchased plans from multiple sources and built boats from various woods, epoxies and glass. I have attempted at every step to learn how to build a beautiful work of art and functional quality water craft.
I believe anybody can build a cedar strip boat. Its just not that hard. However, building a boat with cosmetic values suited to a display case or showroom has been my goal since I completed my first boat. The detail and beauty I have been seeking requires time, patience and skill as well as knowledge of the art of boat building. The Tuxedo has the Quality of Construction I have been striving for and even if the Herringbone does not work out this time I will continue to work hard to achieve my goals. Building a boat second to none with my signature style.
Today I put my new Rigid Contractors table saw to work. In the past I used a small Skill table that was very wobbly and low in horse power. WOW what a difference. I cannot emphasize enough how nice it is to use the right tool for a job compared to the difficulty of trying to use a sub par product or tool. In the past I had to fight with the table by adding weight to the arbor in an attempt to get it to act like a heavy, steady contractors saw. The board would lift, sway and float away from the blade at every opportunity causing blade marks and uneven cutting. The saw motor would bog down with the demands of ripping the long board, slowing down and hacking at the board instead of making powerful clean cuts. What a pain it was to produce the strips I must have to build a boat.
I want great wood not good wood, not ok strips but the best color, grain and shaping I can get. Why build a boat, taking hundreds of hours to see to completion with poor quality or badly milled strips. Start with the best and I will get the best out of my efforts. I am talking to myself but you can take this to heart, I’m sure it applies to all but I did not want to do listen, until now.
So I purchased a used Ridged table saw. Its and older model built in the USA. It has a 1hp motor which may be a little small for some people but it rips through a 2 inch cedar plank without a hitch. It is heavy, having a cast iron table and a good solid arbor. It does have castors on it to allow it to be moved easily around my shop.
I used a piece of ¼” ply to make a zero clearance insert to keep strips from binding in the opening around the blade and another piece of ply to enclose the bottom of the arbor so I could use a shop vac to collect dust.
To make a zero tolerance insert, remove the insert provided by the manufacturer of the saw and use it as a template to draw the outline of a new one on a piece of thin plywood. Cut the new insert out and install it into the saw without cutting out a hole for the blade of the table saw. Once your new insert is properly fitted into the saw, slowly raise the blade, cutting a hole into the insert resulting in a zero clearance insert.
I utilized my 16 foot long strongback as a discharge table to catch my 12-16 ft long boards as they came out of the table saw. In front of the saw I used a single roller stand to support the weight of the board until it was caught by the table saw. The transitions from the support structures to the table were closely aligned to eliminate transitional movement of the board. Meaning, when the board leaves the roller stand or enters the discharge catch table it does not have to settle or lift into a new position. It just moves smoothly along the length of the feed support, cutting table and onto the catch table. This is an important process to milling strips without causing a defect somewhere along its length that will cause a quality issue with the strips. A nice milled strip with a small blade mark in the middle can result in an unusable strip. Or maybe all your 16 ft strips now have a defect in the middle that results in cutting all your strips to 8 foot lengths. Not the end of the world but It may result in problems for your project and the typically high standard boat builders have.
I processed my boards running them through the saw, producing 1.5” x 3/16” strips of cedar. I then ran them through the saw a second time by lying them flat and introducing a 3 degree bevel. This resulted in strips that are 3/4 ” x 3/16 “ and pre-beveled. I do not intend to use bead and cove in the future if this works out.